1.5 lbs. firm daikon, peeled

1 Tbsp. light sesame or veggie oil

1 bu. scallions (green onions), including the firm greens

1 tsp. dark sesame oil

sea salt

1 Tbsp. sesame seeds

soy sauce

Coarsely grate the daikon or cut into matchsticks. Slice the scallions on the diagonal into large pieces. Heat a nonstick skillet and toast the sesame seeds, shaking often, until they smell good (about three minutes). Pour them into a dish, return the pan to the heat, and add the oils. Add the scallions, cook for one minute, then add the daikon. If it feels wet—it will exude water as it sits—squeeze it before adding it to the pan. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt, sprinkle lightly with soy sauce, and sauté over high heat, stirring occasionally, for five minutes. Taste for salt, add more soy if needed, toss with sesame seeds, and serve.

From Local Flavors by Deborah Madison